Osteria Panevino
722 Fifth Ave., Downtown
619-595-7959
www.osteriapanevino.com
There was a time, not too long ago, when every other restaurant in the Gaslamp District seemed to serve “the city’s most authentic Italian cuisine.” The ranks have definitely thinned in favor of steakhouses, American bistros, seafood joints, and Irish pubs, leaving fewer Italian cucinas to compete for your date night dollar.
One of the restaurants that’s done well in this arena is Osteria Panevino on Fifth Avenue. With hearty Tuscan fare (though a bit pricey), a comfortable, rustic look, and knowledgeable servers, Panevino (“bread and wine”) is great for families with older children or couples and small groups out for a bite. Folks with younger kids might want to look elsewhere in the Gaslamp for dinner options, however.
Splitting glasses of sparkling mineral water and pinot grigio, my wife and I chose to start our meal with the Bruschetta Toscana ($8.95). Though this was on a flatbread instead of a crunchier traditional bread, the appetizer was very flavorful with its topping combination of cannellini and garbanzo beans, olive oil and thyme. In addition, we enjoyed Panevino’s house-made table bread with butter and herbed olive oil. It was hard to stop eating it!
Next, we sampled the Buffala Caprese ($18), a salad off the nightly specials list. Fresh, soft mozzarella, huge tender heirloom tomatoes, fragrant basil and basalmic—what’s not to like?
Scanning Panevino’s extensive menu of pizzas, meats, and pastas, we both chose the latter for our entrees. My wife chose the Malfatti Genovesi ($20.95), homemade spinach ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese, and covered in a silky pesto. Though the ravioli itself was a little more al dente than she expected, it was satisfying and tasty.
I had another special—Fettuccine Isola ($32). This dish promised crab and lobster in a succulent red sauce covering homemade fettuccine. Although I dug in heartily, I did notice the sauce was a little fishier-tasting than I would have liked, and the lobster wasn’t nearly as prevalent as the crab.
After all this food, we were no match for Panevino’s dessert menu. Though we were tempted by the tiramisu and the chocolate hazelnut cake, we passed gracefully so we’d be able to walk back down Fifth Avenue to our car.
Check out Panevino’s happy hour from 4–7 p.m., featuring $3 glasses of house wine and special appetizers.
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Ondine Brooks Kuraoka writes from her home in San Carlos. Her family enjoys culinary adventures of all kinds.