Café 21
2736 Adams Ave,
Normal Heights
www.cafe-21.com
619-640-2121
Previously known as Café 2121 (at 2121 Adams Ave.), the place that serves “neighborhood fare with flair” was reborn in February 2010, moving down the street in University Heights and growing in size (and adding a dinner menu). Owners Alex and Leyla, originally from Baku, Azerbaijan, have refined a mix of continental-style dishes with Azeri roots that is both familiar and exotic, and ultimately satisfying.
Situated on Adams and Idaho Street, Café 21 has a small parking lot of its own, but there’s usually plenty of street parking. There’s a nice outdoor seating area with four tables, but no heaters, so bring a sweater on cool nights. Inside, it’s comfortable casual with country-style tables and a beer and wine bar at the front. An interesting feature is a ceiling-mounted projector that shows colorful images of Baku. Although there were children present when we chose to eat dinner, Café 21 struck me more as a date-night location.
After we were greeted, our very attentive and knowledgeable waiter brought flaky rolls made with turmeric, cumin, sesame, and cardamom. Easily the most unique “dinner rolls” I’ve ever had, these were very flavorful and light and a great hint of the meals to come.
For appetizers, I ordered the Crispy Wild Calamari ($9) and a Palm ale, which was on tap ($6). My wife had the Grilled Pear Salad ($12), which featured dried cranberries, feta cheese, spring mix, and a honey balsamic dressing. The calamari was lightly fried and presented with fresh pesto and a spicy marinara. The large tasty salad could be an entrée on its own, but we had no problem finishing it off.
My wife ordered the Char Top Loin ($16) with grilled watermelon, asparagus, house fries (large, thick crispy potato chips), and balsamic syrups. The steak was cooked perfectly for her (the well side of medium), and the watermelon was an interesting flavor component. I had the Whole Rainbow Trout ($17) stuffed with blue crab. Light basmati rice, asparagus and carrots and a lemon sauce finished it off. I requested that they remove the trout’s head, but if you’re so inclined, your meal can look at you while you dine. The fish was beautiful on a hot skillet, and the lemon taste contrasted well with the mushrooms and crab—a very filling meal.
We were too full for dessert, which included Leyla’s fresh-baked cookies and other treats, but we vowed to come back and try them, along with Café 21’s extensive tea list, which includes black, red, green and white varieties.
The hospitality Azerbaijan is noted for is very present at Café 21—our waiter made sure our meal exceeded our expectations, and owner Alex visited each table throughout the night to answer questions and make suggestions. We perused the breakfast and lunch menus while waiting for our food and decided to make Café 21 a place we’d revisit with friends.
Patrick, 41, is a writer/editor in North Park.